But a tracing of someone else's lever is almost as good and much cheaper.īend about 2/3 of what you think is needed. A replacement lever that would fit is ideal. Comparison with another gun of same model is very good. Figure out about how much you need to bend it to make it original. I bend the lever cold, in case it has a heat treat. Don't use a metal pipe without well padding the lever to prevent scratching it. If you have a metal pipe, you can forge the cross section of the pipe to be a thin oval and less padding/wedging is needed. Wedge a couple of wood strips into the pipe to keep the lever or pipe from twisting as you bend. If you need to, wrap the finger loop with heavy cloth (canvas) or even thin leather to make the loop big enough to fit in the pipe without much slop, so you have more control over the pressure you put on the lever.
Find a heavy wall plastic pipe, maybe 3 or 4 feet long, that just fits over the finger loop. Now, the thinnest part of the trigger bow is usually where the bend happened, and the easiest place to re-bend back to original. Get the vise jaws on the flats of the lever and pull up on the finger loop section. Upside down may work best for you for the downward bend you need to make in the lever. Here's how that was done.įirmly clamp the front of lever and first inch of the trigger guard section in a heavy and solidly secured vise. I've bent a couple of 73 levers back to shape. Also, with the gun apart, I tried to hold the bolt in place to see how the lever end (is that the spade?) fits into the bolt and firing pin "notch".pretty inconclusive. I still cant get over the fact that the rear of the firing pin is what pushes the hammer back.just doesn't seem right. Its now a lot better that before, but I think more can be done. I polished the insides pretty well and as I said, took some metal off the back of the trigger. I did read somewhere - maybe the Marlin Forum - that is doesn't fit tightly, supposed to be loose.tho mine may be on the sloppy side. I don't have any Mobil one, Warden, but did give the lever and carrier a couple of small dabs of white lithium grease.įinally Snake Eyes, I too found the lever mounting screw to be loose.even when tightened, its very loose on the mounting stud/screw. You can probably see from the picture of the insides, there is quite a bit of wear in there. Widder, I polished the hammer sides and the tang slot the hammer rides in. It didn't feel right, but I ground it down making the trigger thinner.figured not much to lose. OLG, you are right the back of the trigger was rubbing the lever. Gentlemen, I appreciate all the feedback. Thank you, I will appreciate any feedback. Is something bent here.wrong trigger, wrong hammer, ? approximately the same position shown from the outside in the other picture.ĭon't know if this is pertinent to the problem, but notice that the rear of the trigger is actually rubbing on the lever. The inside view picture shows (after takedown) the hammer and trigger just before engaging the half cock notch.
The outside view picture shows the rear of the firing pin pushing against the hammer face This doesn't seem right to me.cocking the hammer with the firing pin? Sort of hard to envision if you are not familiar with the gun, hope the pictures help. Those two vertical surfaces do not make for a smooth start to the cocking action. It appears that the rear of the firing pin (a straight up vertical surface) is the "pusher" against the vertical surface of the hammer. When you operate the lever, it is very hard to get the bolt moving rearward much easier after it reaches the half cock position. 22 its a great handling little rifle but something isn't right in the cycling/cocking process. I recently bought a Marlin 39 Century Ltd.